Why Medellin’s Comuna 13 Tour is one of the most important travel experiences in Colombia

Ask a hundred people what they know about Colombia, one would hope many would say coffee plantations, beautiful people or salsa dancing. They would be absolutely correct as Colombia is the 3^rd biggest exporter of quality coffee, salsa is absolutely a national past-time (especially in Santiago de Cali) and the people of this proud nation are indeed beautiful, as well as friendly, hospitable and vivacious.

However, the sad fact remains that the most common reference that springs to mind is Pablo Escobar, cocaine smuggling and Narcos. There is no denying that Colombia has a violent past and in the 1980’s and 1990’s, Medellin was indeed considered the most dangerous city in the world. Earning around $70 million dollars per day, the Medellín Cartel rivalled the economy, power and control of a small country.

Many things you read today suggest that the hillside barrios of Medellín are so feared because of the cartel control, but Pablo Escobar was killed 28 years ago, so why is Colombia still unable to shake off their previous negative reputation? The truth is somewhere in between the complex history of political corruption, neglect, brutality and displacement, and there is no better place to understand it than the sprawling neighbourhood of Comuna 13.

Once considered one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in the world, Comuna 13 was initially an illegal and delinquent settlement, then a trafficking route over the western hills of the Medellín valley and controlled by opposing guerrillas, paramilitaries, gangs and drug cartels. After repeated brutal government assaults to clean out the neighbourhood between 2000-2010, the introduction of a metro cable and hillside escalators offered the residents greater potential for easy movement between the city (and ultimately employment and mobility), and visitors showed interest in the once neglected community as they brought their stories to life with colourful and poignant street art.

Our cheeky 22 year old guide Esteban, with his cherubic face, Emporio Armani glasses and weirdly British accent (which he learned from watching ‘Harry Potter’) continuously expressed his appreciation for our willingness and ability to be able to visit his neighbourhood, Comuna 13. One, for the economic injection that tourist money contributes to the developing community, which you could tell he was very much a part of by the constant fist bumping and hollering as he weaved us up the hill. And secondly, to spread the word that there is more to Colombians than dealing drugs.

Esteban, who claims to have toured more than 4,000 people around Comuna 13, regaled us with stories from his childhood with appalling detail of gunshots, and friends lost to all sides of violence – either killed, disappeared, or jailed for their involvement.

His main message was one of hope, positivity, forgiveness and community and the very real possibility of a better future for the residents of Comuna 13 and wider city of Medellín.

Comuna 13 is considered safe for tourists to visit and walk around on their own these days (staying on the main routes and advisably before dark), but it’s only when you hear these stories of pain and forgiveness, can you really appreciate the depth behind the colourful graffiti art. Each piece has a personal message and understanding different sides of humanity is the reason we want people to travel to Colombia.  Sure, the food is delicious, the scenery is spectacular and the salsa is spicy, but human encounters make our global encounters meaningful, worthwhile and longer lasting.

It’s impossible for us to unravel whether extreme and cruel military campaigns have ultimately led to the safer Colombia that we can enjoy today, but the fact remains that there were thousands of victim families affected by the brutality. It’s too complex to conclude and too crass for us to simplify. But to visit, listen, learn and positively contribute is the kindest gesture we can make.

Odyssey World offers tailor made tours to Colombia and, along with our local partners, are experts in creating an itinerary that’s right for you. Contact us on enquiries@odyssey-world.co.uk to learn more about this beautiful country and plan your next authentic travel experience!